Been There, Done That

Showing posts with label Bosnia-Herzegovina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bosnia-Herzegovina. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Mostar

We finally arrived in Mostar after some wrong turns.  Up until this point the gps had been great!  But, I think I had it set to go the shortest route instead of the quickest route.  Anyway...I will explain more in a sec.

Briefly, the country is divided into three ethnic groups: Muslim Bosniaks (44%), Orthodox Serbs (31%) and Catholic Croats (17%).  Due to its rough terrain, this region remained pagan for a longer time before finally converting to Christianity in the 9th century.

During the Ottoman Empire, it was a very important province in the Balkans and the capital, Sarajevo, had 100,000 people. During this time, a Slavic-speaking Muslim
community emerged as one of the largest ethno-religious groups. In 1878, it became a
province of Austria-Hungary when the Empire took over Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1908. In 1914 the Archduke Ferdinand and his wife, Sophie, were assassinated in Sarajevo, leading to World War I. From 1918 until 1992, until the fall of the Soviet Union, the country was a part of the former Yugoslavia. After a 3-year long war, Bosnia and Herzegovina proclaimed independence.

There is little danger in the area, except for the danger of crossing an anti-personnel mine if you stray off the road.

Which leads me back to the gps story...We did have some problems after leaving Medjugorje.  My gps kept leading me to these weird dead end roads in the middle of nowhere.  After another dead-end at a cemetery, some old German lady told us, in German, to go back a different way.  Thankfully, I had taught myself some German when I was dating that German guy a couple of years ago.  In German, she told me to go three kilometers and then turn right.  I thanked her, and off we went. We finally arrived at Mostar.
Mary seemed kind of concerned about our safety.  I knew we'd be fine.  This obviously wasn't the touristy part of town that was our actual destination.  Remnants were visible from the siege of 1993 when the Croatian Defense Council expelled the Bosniaks from the west side to the east side of the city where heavy shelling then occurred.  The forces engaged in ethnic cleansing raping and killing thousands.
The graves of thousands of people, many my own age that were all killed in 1993.
Even babies were killed.
People eating out of the garbage can.

There were lots of old mosques in the area.


Shops in the old city.
First glimpse of what we drove there for: The Stari Most (Old Bridge).  This bridge was originally constructed in the 16th century during Ottoman rule.  It stood for 427 years until November 9, 1993 when it was destroyed by Croat forces during the Croat/Bosniak war. 

Stari Most spanning the Neretva River. (I took this pic from on the bridge itself)

View of the old city from the middle of the bridge.
Diving off the bridge is a traditional annual competition that has been done 477 times as of 2013.   The practice dates back to the time when the bridge was first built.

Inside one of the shops was a video playing depicting the siege of Mostar, including the destruction of the bridge.  The bridge stood for 427 years until its destruction on November 8, 1993.  It took more than 60 shells to destroy the bridge and many believe the Croats destroyed it simply to destroy their culture, since it had no real strategic importance.

This video partially depicts the destruction of the bridge.  It was very emotional to see it get destroyed.

More emotional video of the reopening of the bridge in 2004, complete with doves being released and the return of the divers.





Last view of Stari Most with the sun reflecting off the cross high on the hill.

Something About Mary

Today, we took a day trip out to Bosnia.  The name "Bosnia" seems to send chills down the spines of the people I share this with.  They still have visions of the war in 1993, and don't seem to know much else about it. They think it is still dangerous.  It isn't so much, but I will talk about that later.
Heading inland.
My Audi rental at the border of Croatia and Bosnia.
Our first stop was to be a holy town called Medjugorje. 
According to the town's website: Since 1981, in a small village in Bosnia-Hercegovina named Medjugorje, the Blessed Virgin Mary has been appearing to six children and giving messages to the world. She tells us that God has sent Her to our world, and these years she is spending with us are a time of Grace granted by God. In Her own words She tells us, "I have come to tell the world that God exists. He is the fullness of life, and to enjoy this fullness and peace, you must return to God"

On our way to Medjugorje.


Mother's Village for orphans in Medjugorje.
St. James Church where we caught the end of mass.

We found our way to Apparation Hill.  I was interested in climbing to the place where the children saw their first visions of Mary.  It was no easy task.  The terrain is very rough and rocky.  It is said that the children were seen practically flying up the hill.
The city of Medjugorje as seen from the top of the hill.

Stone carvings along the route to Apparition Hill.

Gift shop at the bottom of the hill.

I was hoping to see/feel something spiritual especially considering all of the emotional drama that I have been through lately,eg: men with low self-esteem with insane wives for one -but I just didn't.  Time to head to Mostar, our final stop for the day.