Been There, Done That

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Verona and African Kings

Two households, both alike in dignity
In fair Verona, where we lay our scene
—William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet, The Prologue

Being an English teacher, of course, I had to visit the home of at least two Shakespeare plays: The Two Gentlemen of Verona and Romeo & Juliet. Verona is actually a quaint town. My first stop was Castelvecchio, an
imposing structure over the Adige River where lovers like to stroll holding hands and kissing. I wanted to puke. Next.

Next, I wandered around town a little bit and finally found Casa de Giulietta (Juliet's House). At the entrance, there are hundreds of notes to Juliet stuck to the wall with gum. Some are sort of crass: “For a good time call Juliet: 555-5555.” Some were a
sking to find new love. After you pass the threshold, you immediately see the famous balcony and a bronze statue made to the likeness of Juliet. The myth states that if you rub her right breast, you will get a new lover or be lucky in love or something like that. There was a line of people waiting to rub her breast, men, women and children -although I’m not sure if they understood why they were caressing the boob of some statue. Near the balcony on the wall was a plaque with an inscription from the play. The famous “Romeo o Romeo" line. Or maybe it was the line about Juliet being the sun. Anyway, it was some line.

Next I headed to Romeo’s house. Not much there and no tourists. The only way you really knew it was supposed to be his house was because there was a plaque like the one at Juliet’s house with a quote from the play as well. Again, I don't remember which.

While wandering around looking for somewhere to eat, I happened upon Piazza Erbe and Piazza dei Signori. There is an arch with a whalebone hanging from it. The legend states that if a "just" person walks underneath it, the whalebone will fall. So far everyone from presidents to popes have walked underneath it, and it hasn't fallen yet! I stopped at a cafe and had spaghetti with lobster and a glass of white wine. Yummy!

My last stop before leaving Verona was to visit the tomb of Juliet. It was a little ways away. It was in a crypt, but not really like I envisioned it would look like in the Shakespeare play. Before you enter the tomb there is a mail box that reads, "Dear Juliet:" with letters inside. You are supposed to be able to write Juliet a letter and get it answered.

On my way to the train station, I happened upon some sort of festival for children near the ancient Roman Arena which was completed around 30 A.D. and is the third largest in Italy. There was some kind of show going on and two couples were doing the Tango in the square. Pretty cool!

I finally reached the train station. I wanted to get to Florence by nightfall. Suddenly, I spied a guy that looked like some kind of an African king. He was wearing a long, ornate, purple gown with silver trim and a gold headress. He had a
n assisstant dressed in white following his every move. He seemed like he might be playing the part of Othello. Where did that play take place? It turns out that Verona has immigrants coming from nations such as, Romania, South Asia and sub-Saharan Africa. This would not be the last time I would see Africans in Italy.

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