The Felucca Experience

I was picked up at my hotel and escorted to the felucca boat that would be my home for the next couple of days. A felucca is a traditional wooden sailing boat used in protected waters of the Red Sea and eastern Mediterranean including Malta. They are most popular along the Nile in Egypt and Sudan. I was really hoping to catch a glimpse of some crocodiles along the way, but was told that there are none in the Nile. What? No "Nile crocodile?" I guess they are only in Lake Nassar.

On our boat, we had an Irish couple, and Israeli guy, three Koreans, a Canadian woman, and a guy from Chile. Our crew consisted of a cook named Mohamed and our "captain" Atta. I was surprised at how comfortable the felucca was. Nice fluffy cushions covered it with big pillows so you could just take your shoes off, lie back, and relax. There are no bathrooms and no showers. We would pull off to the side of the embankment now and then for meals and you had to use that opportunity to find a nice bush to relieve yourself.

In the evening, we pulled over and put the flaps down the sides of the boat in an effort to keep out the cold. I didn't bring a sleeping bag, so I threw a few blankets over myself and I felt fine - for awhile. About 2am I woke up FREEZING my ass off. My feet were the coldest. I noticed the guy from Chile sleeping next to me was pretty cold too. Everyone else had hogged the sleeping bags and now I was pissed I didn't grab one. I had no idea how I would survive a second night.

To my surprise, in the morning everyone got off the boat. The Israeli guy (Amos), the Irish couple (Paddy and Leslie??) and I were the only ones staying for a second night. Good! I would be sure to get a sleeping bag that night. It was a beautiful day as we meandered down the Nile. We stopped for a swim (I didn't do any swimming) and just hung out in the warm sun. Captain Atta is the crabby grandfather you never wanted. He liked me I guess because he seemed amused every time I tried to use my broken Arabic. Egyptians seems to get a kick out of that in general.

During one of our stops, a group of kids came to the bank of the river, hoping we would disembark and buy some of their wares. I got out and was immediately surrounded by about seven kids eagerly putting their jewelry in front of me hoping I would pick theirs. I finally chose a red beaded necklace. Since I felt bad for the other kids, I gave them each 50 piasters (which is like the equivalent of a dime or something.) They hung out a while longer hoping we'd get off and buy more stuff.

That night I got a sleeping bag and was nice and toasty and had a very good sleep. In the morning, Amos and I were summoned off the felucca and over to the road to a minibus that was to take us to some more temples on our way to Luxor. Wait a minute! I thought our felucca was supposed to stop at those temples on the way to Luxor. We were given some excuse about there not being enough wind or something. Whatever.

A donkey with our felucca in the background.